It is almost 3 months since I returned from an adventure that challenged, changed and grew me. A trip that helped define who I am, what i am capable of and what truly makes me come alive. A trip that will forever be remembered for so many reasons, and one that I have difficulty putting into words!
I have been meaning to update this blog since my return, but how can I possibly summarise my experiences, and emotions? I managed to keep a journal throughout my journey and I often go back and read it… some days the excitement and elation is almost tangible, as is the raw emotion and exhaustion of those tough days. I certainly experienced the highest of highs and lowest of lows during those 5,5 weeks of solo cycle touring, but I would not wish for it to have been any different.
Allow me to go back to the 9th of September 2015… when I set off, with tick bit fever, my awesome TREK and minimal clothing for the 36hr journey to Auckland, New Zealand! I think I had 10 Myprodol’s before finally arriving to be met by Claire and my gorgeous nephew Finn, who i met for the first time! Another 3 hour drive later and we drove into the farm, where I spent the first 3 weeks with my brother and his special family! With 4 boys and a dairy farm, it was a busy yet wonderful time as I put on gum boots and overalls each morning to feed calves! In the evenings Greg (my brother) and I discussed my trip and where I should try and go. Being a trout fisherman he knows some of the most remote, beautiful places and all his input was invaluable.
With a basic itinerary, camping equipment, some food supplies, bike spares, and as much clothing that could fit into the space left in my bag it was time to head to Auckland to begin the big adventure! I hired a ‘Bob Yak Trailer’, which fits onto the back axle and has one wheel, and suspension nogal, from a bike shop… so whatever didn’t fit on the trailer, couldn’t come! My departure was not an elegant one… as my brother watched in horror as I fell over numerous times before finally riding in a straight line! This was after he offered to rather buy me a flight to Queenstown and that he wasn’t going to allow me to go on my own like that! 🙂
And so it began… the travelling circus that covered about 1500km of the most incredible countyside!! New Zealand truly is the most amazing country, with scenery that constantly changes, and surprises. Sometimes 2 or 3 days would go by when I didn’t have any human contact.. it was just me and the remote, spectacular countryside! I wish I could write about every day… and maybe I will one day! Instead I will give you my itinerary and answer some of the most frequently asked questions I have received!
My itinerary:
30 Sept 2015: Auckland- Waitomo (bus + 15km riding)
01 Oct 2015: Waitomo- Pureora (start of the Timber Trail): 70km
02 Oct 2015: Pureora – Piro Piro: 40km (poured with rain all day)
03 Oct 2015: Piro Piro- Taumaranui: 70km (even ate McDonald’s)
04 Oct 2015: Taumaranui- Tongariro National park (50km) (drank some Wine!)
05 Oct 2015: Tongariro: cycled and did a 25km run to the Tama Lakes (crater eruption lakes)
06 Oct 2015: Tongariro- Wellington (bus): only night I spent in a backpackers
07 Oct 2015: Wellington- Pelorus Bridge (3hr ferry trip + 55km cycling)- best campside I stayed at!
08 Oct 2015: Pelorus Bridge- Nelson (40km via Maungatapu 4×4 Track) Should’ve taken the longer road option… the most difficult day of the trip by far
09 Oct 2015: Nelson- Wakefield (35km via Great Taste Trail)
10 oct 2015: Wakefield- St Arnaud (60km)- experienced the WIND for the first time
11 Oct 2015: St Arnaud- Rainbow Trail Day 1 (65km)- this place is just incredible
12 Oct 2015: Doc Hut in Rainbow- Hanmer Springs (55km)- thermal hot springs were incredible!
13 Oct 2015: Hanmer Springs- got delayed by the one bike mechanic in town being unbale to fix a tubeless tyre!
14 Oct 2015: Hanmer Springs- lewis Pass Deer Valley (70km)- too much wind again
15 Oct 2015: Lewis Pass- Reefton (65km): Epic night with locals at the pub!
16 Oct 2015: Reefton- Westport (80km)- stayed with Sally… slept in a BED with a real pillow!
17 Oct 2015: Westport- Fox Glacier (Bus)
18 Oct 2015: Fox Glacier – Wanaka (Bus)
19 Oct- 20 Oct: Wanaka- fell in love with this town, awesome people, beautiful setting, running & MTB trails for days!
21 Oct 2015: Wanaka- Arrow Town via Crown Range (50km)- thought I was going to die! Cross winds down the pass so bad i had to walk.
22 Oct 2015: Arrow Town – Queenstown via Queenstoen Trails (50km)
23 Oct 2015: Queenstown- exploring
24 Oct 2015: Queenstown- Te Anau (Bus)- ran some of the Kepler Track
25 Oct 2015: Te Anau & Milford Sound- amazing sea kayak trip on Milford Sound
26 Oct 2015: Te Anau- Mavora Lakes (70km)- not a person in sight!
27 Oct 2015: Mavora Lakes- Queenstown (60km plus epic ferry on TSS Ernslaw Steam Boat)
28 Oct 2015: Queenstown- Mount Cook (Bus)
29 Oct 2015: Mount Cook- one of my favorites, fascinated by the alpine environment. Lits of running & exploring! Freezing night!
30 Oct 2015: Mount Cook- Twizel (70km)
31 Oct 2015: Twizel- Lake Tekapo (60km via Alps2Ocean Trail) LAST day fo cyling
01 Nov 2015: Lake Tekapo- Christchurch (5am RWC final and bus)
02 Nov 2015: Christchurch
03 Nov 2015: picked up Camper, drove to Kaikoura
04 Nov 2015: Kaikoura- Wellington
05 Nov 2015: Wellington- Rotorua
07 Nov 2015: Rotorua- Auckland the END
Some FAQ’s:
- Were you ever scared? No, never! I felt very safe in NZ!
- What did you do in the evenings? It depended where I was and how I felt! Sometimes I got to a campsite, set up camp, put on my running shoes and went exploring! Other times I was too exhausted to do anything than make some simple food and lie on my mattress! If in town, I sometimes went out for dinner/drinks!
- What was the weather like? Very variable! I had rain, sunshine, hectic wind, event some snow. My coldest night was -7 in Mount Cook!
- What did you eat? A lot of 2 minute noodles, cuppa soup, dehydrated meals and oats every morning! When I went through towns I would grab lunch/dinner/fresh fruit & veg!
- Were you always alone? Yes!! I cycled the entire time alone! I did meet some great people along the way though.
- Did you have many mechanicals? NO!! Thank goodness, only the 1 flat tyre!
- How much did the trailer weigh? No idea! But it was damn heavy!
- Were you completely self sufficient? Yes! I always ensured I had enough food etc for at least 3 days before restocking when necessary.
- Would you do it again? ABSOLUTELY!!! I would go tomorrow!
- Were you lonely? At times yes. Especially when the going got tough.
Some things I learnt:
- The cleats on cycling shoes are great for hammering in tent pegs!
- There is nothing flat about NZ!
- The First Ascent Wines2Whales bag is NOT 100% waterproof!!
- NEVER be without SandFly repellent… do not leave the tent in the morning without putting on sunscreen and repellent!
- The wind can blow, especially on the South Island!
- I would rather ride in rain than wind
- A bob trailer is the way to go- even on single track
- Always trust Fly Fishermen!! 🙂
- Fords are COLD, especially when you fall in them, bike and all!
- the DOC campsites are the best, especially the remote ones
- Every peddle stroke does get you closer to the next campsite!
- Always carry wetwipes for the ‘longdrop only’ campsites!
- Never be ashamed of riding for hours in Granny Gear!
- A bike trailer is a great conversation starter.
- Kiwi drivers have respect for cyclists!
- If you have a choice, always choose the ‘adventurous’ route
- Sometimes it feels so good to shout and swear into nothing when the riding is tough!
- Asians & Poms love to travel in NZ!
- Aussies are the most friendly tourists
- A silk liner inside your sleeping bag is a winner!
- Kiwis are extremely friendly and welcoming
- I am actually much tougher than I thought!
- It is easier to ride from place to place than take a bus… it is a mission getting everything on and off the bus
- The Pinot Noir from NZ is delicious!
- Always ask locals which pub to go to… avoid the touristy places as much as possible
Some other facts:
- I put up and took down my tent 31 times!
- Kiwi’s are the most emotional rugby supporters in the world!! Witnessed the RWC final in a pub at 5am… tears, beers and tequilas were flowing!
- My longest time without a shower was 3 days!!
- There were a number of things I couldn’t do due to the weather- like run the Tongariro Alpine Crossing & hike the Milford Track. I have to go back in summer when the snow and ice has melted!
- I hate selfies!!
- A glass of wine at a pub costs the same as a bottle at a supermarket. But I never had space to carry a bottle!
- Cell phone reception on the south island is pretty rare!
I have stories for days, and will hopefully share them soon! I am planning an informal get together with photos etc for those who would like to hear more. And if anything it’s a great excuse to get together!
Thank you to everyone who supported me during my time away… especially my wonderful parents! I reckon every person should do something like this at some stage in their lives… you won’t regret it!!
nixcollins 